Archive for category: Tips

A flowering evergreen shrub that likes full sun is a bit of a unicorn in our region. Numerous ‘wonder shrubs’ have been marketed into favor only to fail in the landscape. Cold Hardy Camellia & Gardenia we find are not so hardy and fall short of their marketed promise. Even Japanese Hollies (Ilex crenata) have permanently crossed themselves off of savvy designer’s lists due to their poor & short performance in the landscape. The need for this type shrub has given rise to another unsustainable and perpetually problematic shrub. The newest mania… Cherry Laruel aka ‘Otto Luyken’ & ‘Schip’ Laurels. Landscapers commonly encounter this plant not only at the residential level but on the commercial one as well. Local growers struggle to produce quality plants in the nursery in our region and often time must buy the plants in from the West Coast or states south of us just to have a salable plant. The market demand is high at the moment, as is the need to replace these shrubs that continuously fail in the landscape. This is good for garden centers because everyone has to keep buying the same plant over and over. It is a predictable cycle of disappointment. They truly are the Leyland Cypress of the shrub world without a doubt.

These Laurels are prone to root rot and susceptible to fungal problems in our area. Some of these diseases are nothing more than a perpetual annoyance while others can severely damage the shrub and kill it. Leaf spots are caused by fungus that attacks the shrub, causing wilting, curling and premature dropping of foliage. Bacterial leaf blight, similar to leaf spot, is very common and has absolutely no chemical control. Phytophthora fungi attacks the crown and roots of  Cherry Laurel shrubs, causing various damaging symptoms such as wilted, stunted and discolored foliage that drops from the stems. This also very common problem has no chemical control and will kill the shrub as well. Shothole fungus, while not life threatening can be a very annoying and unattractive problem with these plants on an annual basis. Powdery Mildew & Aphids infestations are also very common. These problems spread from plant to plant and often times take out an entire hedge. We truly are left scratching our heads as to why this plant is still so popular. We went so far as to plant one here at Windridge to track it’s progress. It was a very healthy plant, and one of the few that was raised locally. The shrub was left over from a project and we decided to turn it into an experiment. It has been in our landscape for three years now. It has put on little to no growth and is showing signs of fungal dieback. We anticipate its removal by Spring of 2020 at the latest.

Laurel at our shop

Consider planting Inkberry, Osmanthus, shrub form Arborvitaes, False Cypress, Globe Cryptomeria, Grey Owl Juniper, or a Blight Tolerant Boxwood like ‘Green Beauty’. Consider a semi evergreen like several of our viburnums such as ‘Conoy’ or Leatherleaf , Oakleaf Hydrangeas, or perhaps PJM Rhododendron in a semi protected partially shaded area. Even ornamental grasses can offer a visual buffer over the winter & provide habitat for native pollinators.

Upper Left Oakleaf, Lower Left Green Beauty, Upper Right Rheingold Arborvitae, Lower Right PJM Rhododendron

There is not one obvious substitute plant for this situation. We are working with both our residential & commercial clients to find sustainable & diverse substitutes. To wrap this up do yourself a favor and scratch Otto Luyken & Schip Laurel off your list permanently.

Upper Inkberry Hedge, Lower Leatherleaf Hedge in Winter

There’s something about the beginning of the fall season that makes people eager to start pruning. Perhaps it is the onset of winter? Or Perhaps it’s all the raking and mulching that has people going overboard in their yard?

But before you start pruning your trees and shrubs, you may want to tune in to what the landscape experts have to say.

The leading minds in the green industry are recommending that you prune nothing in the fall. That goes for trees, shrubs, & perennial plants & grasses.

Now this may lead you to feel like you are way out of your comfort zone.  It is important to reassure yourself that fall is simply not the right time to prune. Not even to trim trees and shrubs, though the fallen leaves have exposed all their imperfections. Pump you brakes and put your pruning tools back in the shed for at least a month or so. Here is an explanation and some pruning basics, to be implemented when it’s a more opportune time to trim back trees and shrubs:

Why Not Prune In Fall

Pruning in fall stimulates new growth just when the plants are trying to go dormant, and this severely weakens the plants. Furthermore if you prune on a warm day, sap rises up into the plant; then it drops below freezing that night, and you run the risk of losing your plant entirely. This risk is only increasing due to the continually shifting weather patterns we are experiencing now & into the foreseeable future.

Instead, prune in the dead of winter or in early spring. Consider it an exercise in self control over your fall pruning obsession. Keep in mind that you can prune spring bloomers right after they finish flowering. Proper pruning of flowering shrubs will help the plants produce more flowers, which can also benefit wildlife. Being mindful of your pruning timing can also help trees and shrubs avoid infectious diseases and unwanted interest from pests. Waiting until winter means that most woody plants are dormant, and because leaves have already fallen, it makes it easier for you to see what you’re doing. For early spring bloomers (like Rhododendron & Viburnum) that only need light pruning, prune them just after they finish blooming. For very overgrown deciduous shrubs, winter pruning is in all likelihood the best approach.

Scientists are finding that numerous pollinators use grasses and perennials as a overwinter habitat. That habitat is becoming harder and harder for them to find due to our overzealous cleaning of our yards. Birds also browse seed heads for food. Consider leaving at least some of your plants as an experiment. Tell yourself its ‘winter interest’.

Never Prune When It’s Wet

As a general rule of thumb, don’t prune when experiencing damp conditions outside. Doing so spreads a lot of diseases. Damp weather encourages the growth of microorganisms & fungi that will thrive on the open wounds left from pruning. Wait until the sun’s out for a while. Give the heat the opportunity to dry out and kill mold & bacteria.

Pruning Is An Art

Cut the branch as close to the source as you can without creating a ‘flush cut’. Cut at the same angle as the branch collar ( the furrow of bark where branch and trunk meet) so that the plant can seal over the wound. If you leave a stub sticking out, it’s an area for bacteria and insects to harbor.

Pruning is essential to allow more sunlight and air circulation to filter through the trees and shrubs. This will help to keep them healthy. When it’s time to prune, first focus on removing dead or dying branches. If you see a sickly branch, cut between the diseased spot and the body of the plant. Also remove branches that turn inwards, rub, or cross each other. Typically you cut the smaller branch off. Also consider removing a branch if it is growing vertically. You can also take off really low branches that could interfere with foot traffic or lawnmowers. Keep the amount of material pruned off between 15-20% of the total plant.

Know the limits of your pruning ability. If you can’t trim from the ground using pole pruners/saw, or if there’s any pruning to be done near power lines, make sure you hire a professional instead of climbing and taking on the dangerous task yourself.

Know What You Are Pruning

There are numerous trees and shrubs that you can prune from winter until the sap starts flowing again in spring. Others you may want to wait to prune until after they bloom so that you do not sacrifice next years flowers by pruning at the incorrect time. It is important that you identify the plant before you prune to determine the optimal time to do so.

Keep Tools Clean

No matter what type of pruning tools you decide to use, make sure you keep them clean! Especially if you’ve cut out diseased branches. It is imperative that you sterilize your tools thoroughly before moving on to another plant, to avoid spreading disease. You can disinfect the tools by using just a teaspoon or two of bleach in warm water. Some prefer to use disinfectant wipes, alcohol, or zerotol. Hot, soapy water also kills most germs. Remember to dry (and possibly oil) tools well after washing, too.

You should be comfortable & confident in your yard. If you have any questions about pruning timing, technique, plant identification, or you just need help we are only a phone call or email away.

Hardscaping by definition is built to last. Paver patio’s, walkways, segmental retaining walls, stairs, freestanding walls, and columns are beautiful durable additions to any property that can offer years of outdoor enjoyment. Over time however, the weather can have an impact on your outdoor feature and it can begin to deteriorate if proper, preventative maintenance is not preformed.

Proper maintenance does not have to be a herculean task. There are simple, regular chores to be preformed to ensure that it always looks its best.

This first chore may make you feel like a bit of a Disney Princess but sweep your hardscape regularly to keep it free from debris. Once you’re done spray the stone down with a garden hose to ensure the majority of the nitty gritty bits are washed away. This may not be practical in the winter months but it is a nice way to cool down in the summer. In fall, over the winter, and in to spring dirt & vegetation gets an opportunity to collect. This can stain your pavers, low blocks, & block lips on a segmental wall. If this occurs know that the majority of stains can be removed by water, detergent, and good old elbow grease. Mold, moss, & oil based stains often require a different approach.

A paver sealant is a good option for an area with high use, or for a property that only gets used on occasion. There are a variety of different sealer finishes. Sealed pavers are easier to clean. The sealer will diminish over time especially in higher use hardscapes and may need to be resealed a bit more often than one that is used only intermittently.

Getting down and dirty with your hardscape allows you the opportunity to really inspect it. You can inspect your hardscape for gaps in the joints, any cracked or chipped pavers. A polymeric joint sweep can be reapplied easily. Re-application after pressure washing is typically a given. Often times you should replace compromised pavers as cracks tend to increase & spread over seasons of freezing & thawing. Individual stones are easy to replace. Look for dips or low spots in your paver surface, or a sag/bulge in your wall while you’re at it. This can be an indication of a more serious structural problem that could need to be addressed sooner rather than later.

Water will begin to collect in new areas on a patio that is becoming uneven. Pooling water can damage a hardscape quickly so it is best to contact a professional hardscape company to come out an assess the situation.

With a wee bit of diligent maintenance and a watchful eye you can be confident that your hardscape investment will not only add value to the property but to your daily life overall.

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Color in your garden can come in all shapes and sizes and is a wonderful way to express your personality.  From peaceful corners with splashes of white, to vibrant accents that will cheer you year round.